Kusadasi,
Ephesus, Virgin Mary's House

Western Turkey - Group Journal
Day 12 - Wednesday, 15 April 1998
by Bud Spengler

Left hotel at 8:35 - stopped for great pastries and then a 25 minute run to the mosque at the entrance of Ephesus where Meli talked about he turbaned tombstones; the death announcement being broadcast to the neighborhood and other vignettes of historic life including Amazons, building the temple of Artemis; and Androcles who was told by the oracles to build a city on the spot where he found fish, fire and wild boar.

Androcles found them and built Ephesus on the spot.

Then toured the museum where Meli discussed her role in developing the places for focusing on the matriarchal aspect of the early cultures, explained in detail the structure of Artemis, the significant mother-god. We explored this special place and then moved on to jewelry.

Meli's preferred shop seemed to be a boon to most women. Lots of lovely Turkish jewelry was acquired and will no doubt enhance North American ladies on the trip.

Then on to another great meal - lunch. Salad, bread, tiny meat loaves, French fries and beverage of choice.

Fortified with this filling lunch, Meli said, "Let's go up to the Virgin Mary's house." So, we did, dropping two couples who preferred to concentrate on Ephesus as we passed it en route to the Virgin's home.

There, Meli explained how St. John brought her to his home following the crucifixion. She lived until age 61 when she died and may be buried on those grounds. We toured the house.

Finally, down from the mountaintop to the north entry of Ephesus. Meli delivered several lectures while we toured its many many sights. We left after 5:00 bone weary but satisfied to say the least.

We have a farewell party at 8:00 p.m. and most will be leaving for Greece in the a.m.

Day 12, evening - Geri Squires

The Last Supper
We have our final dinner together at Hotel Barbados, (or Barbarossa, depending upon which piece of paper you look at) and Meli reminisces about being late the first night and her worries. It was important to her to make it a good tour, and it turned out to be an excellent one. We had good weather, and the assistance of Julie, Rakella, and Mahmut is of great value. A tiny pair of gloves (mittens) is representative of Metin, our faithful and dependable bus driver.

Julie stayed up late last night preparing awards. Each person gets a postcard with the Turkish flag on front and a special and individual message on the back. First, Meli talks about the flag, a symbol of synthesis. The crescent represents ethnic identity, is a symbol of the mother goddesses and of Islam. She reminds us of the image of Rumi sitting on a crescent at Kayseri. The star represents the 26 independent Turkish states in history. Before Ataturk, the flag had 26 stars, and he commanded that all but one be dropped. The red color represents the blood that has been shed in the many wars and battles in this country.

The awards:

Clara - the youngest, and the first tour member to go to a cinema

Christine - the wisest shopper

Dennis - the good father award. (Ed. Note - He was also one of the doctors who helped us get through the crises that afflicted so many of us.)

Joe - barbecue man for his tiger-stripe sunburn.

Carla - sage migraine advice from a carpet salesman

Becky - walking stick, and loser of things

Jim D. - Man of the rocks

Martha - solitary traveler no more

Kate - fit as can be

Ed - merry whistler

Jim & Jeri Jardine - best travel clothes (Jeri demonstrates her shirt with passport sized pocked hidden in the hem.)

Nancy - keeper of the journal

Bud - Lawrence of Langley, for his safari style cap with a back 'skirt' which protected his neck from the sun.

Jim Squires - King of the gadgets and journal editor.

Geri - co-editor of the journal.

In the cavernous cistern below the streets of Istanbul, we sang in order to hear the echoes. We didn't do very well, but our song of choice at that time was Amazing Grace. It seemed a fitting tune, then, to sing a farewell song to Meli. Geri Squires supplied the words, and Julie kept us somewhat in tune. Julie had said earlier that Meli would be in tears by the 3rd stanza and she was right.

Amazing Meli, how sweet the face
That guided wretches like us
We once were strangers, now we're friends
Were blind but now we see.

'Twas Meli taught our eyes to see
The Turkey that she loves
We came and walked across this land
And breathed its dusty air.

We heard her voice in our sleep,
Her words echoing strange
She told us things that shocked our minds
And made us think again.

Her tears come quick when her heart is touched
By thoughts of Ataturk
Or women fighting by their men
For this their own proud land.

Where could we find so dear a guide 
Who else could be like her?
There's only one, we'll not forget
Our Meli, guide and friend.

Because not everyone will be going to the boat in the morning, Meli arranged for a bottle of water and a potted plant to be brought into the room. Ceremoniously, she poured out the water, wishing for us a continuing trip that will go as smoothly as the water pours from the bottle. This Turkish custom seems especially significant now that we have all experienced two weeks of buying by the bottle every drop of water we drank, and of seeing firsthand how precious water is in a dry and dusty land.